AZRAQ

An oasis runs dry

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The Azraq Oasis is located around 100 kilometres to the east of the Jordanian capital Amman. It was once a place full of water and life, but over the last years the oasis has undergone a major change. Where earlier there were ponds and extensive marshlands, the desert has now reclaimed large areas. Inhabitants must survive with much less water for themselves and their animals. Azraq is an example of the effect brought about by water shortages – a situation which exists throughout Jordan.

Some approaches exist to make better use of the existing meagre water supply, but time is running out for the Jordanian people.

The population is growing worldwide. This increases demand for water.

In the middle east, the climate is changing every 20.000 years, from deserts to tropical forests and vice versa.

The Kingdom of Jordan is among the driest nations on earth.

The Azraq Oasis is located around 100 kilometres from the capital city of Amman.

The wetlands once covered an area of 12 sq. km – today only 10% remain.

Water - Source of life

Azraq Oasis lies above one of the largest water resources in Jordan. Until the mid-20th century springs brought water bubbling to the surface to form a large wetland area - and an important resting place for travellers and their animals in the otherwise dry surroundings.

Water shortage in Jordan

Learn more about the people of Azraq

Water is a valuable resource in Jordan. There is not enough; nowhere near enough. The country is made up to a large part by desert with little rainfall and very few rivers. The situation has also been made worse by climate change.

Each year it becomes more difficult to provide the population with sufficient water to survive. This is why the kingdom decided, in the 1940s, to make use of the groundwater and to drill the first deep wells. In the Azraq Oasis alone, 17 state-owned wells providing large quantities of water, were created within only a few years. This water was transported through a hastily constructed distribution system to the cities of Zarqa, Mafraq and Russeifa.

Nahr ez-Zarqa or the „blue river“ during the rain period. It is the third biggest river in Jordan, a popular destination for families and friends for a picnic on weekends.

At the same time, construction of illegal wells flourished. Many farmers and private landowners had wells drilled in their own gardens, providing themselves, their animals and their fields with access to fresh drinking water all year round. According to Kamal Al-Sa’ad, Manager of the water distribution station at Azraq, today there are more than 1000 illegal wells in the surrounding area.

The demand for water in the country was so great however, that enormous quantities were consumed in a very short time. In the same period, rainfall in the headwaters area of the Azraq basin dropped, resulting in a rapid decrease in the groundwater level – on average, 80 cm per year.

As a result, the oasis silted up and by 1991, the whole region around Azraq ran nearly completely dry. Despite elaborate rehabilitation measures, there remains very little to remind people of the once picturesque oasis with its expansive pools and diverse animal life, which is sadly missed by the inhabitants.

Muhammad Al-Sheshani, Leader of the Chechen in South-Azraq

The situation is coming to a head

Currently, the spring in Azraq needs to reach down to a depth of 440 metres to be able to provide water. 2100 cubic metres are pumped to the surface each hour. But only a small proportion of this remains in the oasis, more than 80% is transported away to local towns nearby. This is much too much. At the moment, the water being removed is more than 2.5 times the amount flowing into the groundwater. This approach by the Jordanian government is considered very controversial among experts.

Learn more about the climate and the people

Water consumer no. 1: Agriculture

In actual fact, Jordan is dependent on a productive agriculture. The country must import more than 90% of its requirements for grain, 80% of animal feed and 42% of animal-derived food like meat and dairy products.

And yet the agricultural sector uses more water than all other sectors together. The government has now called a stop here and is trying to apply measures to reduce water consumption. Small famers in particular are suffering under the new restrictions and are worried about their livelihood.

Refugees – A further challenge

War, famine or drought; in 2016 more than 65.6 million people were forced to flee their homeland. Of these, more than 22.5 million are still stranded as refugees in foreign countries.

While the surrounding countries saw protests, attempted coups and war, Jordan was never affected directly by the Arab Spring. Despite this, the current situation is putting a strain on the country. Hundreds of thousands of refugees are flowing into the nation from the neighbouring state of Syria. This is a major challenge for resource-deprived Jordan; but it is not a new problem. In the last century, the Near East was repeatedly shaken by war; further conflicts with further floods of refugees. The Jordan government attempts to provide for the immigrants with tent camps, but the number of people needing help is very high. The country, population and resources have all reached their limits.

Some organisations are trying to support Jordan. These include the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC).

Mufleh Alalaween Al Abbadi, Expert on Water and Climate Change Management SDC

Conflicts in the region

Interactive map: Current conflicts in the near east

Egypt: The Arab Spring had a strong effect on Egypt. The head of state was overthrown and a new government formed. But the current situation is not stable yet; the new president holds himself in power as the "Saviour of the Nation", people questioning this are designated "anti-national". The country suffers repeatedly from terror attacks.

Saudi-Arabia: The fight between Sunnis and Shiites is influencing, in particular, the two countries of Saudi-Arabia and Iran. But these two rivals hardly get along with each other economically or politically anyway. The situation is intensified by the isolation of Katar, led by Saudi Arabia.

Syria: In Syria, a civil war has prevailed since 2011 against the regime of Baschar al-Assad. The situation is extremely complicated as in the meantime, Russia and Iran have intervened in the war taking sides with Assad, and the USA has sided with the rebels. In addition, the IS has spread over large areas of the nation – nevertheless a mutual enemy of the major players.

Iraq: The Jihadists refer in their beliefs to some areas in Iraq. For this reason, they are attempting to bring some areas of land, mainly in the northwest of the country, under their control. The city of Mossul is recognised today as an IS stronghold and, similar to Aleppo in Syria, has been nearly completely destroyed. The Iraq army is trying to counteract the faith community of the IS, but only with limited success.

Israel: In 1948 it was intended to divide Palestine into two nations as a solution to the conflict between Palestinians and Jews. This failed attempt at division of the country sparked off the Palestine War, leading to 700,000 Palestinians fleeing the region. During the Six-Day War in 1967, another 300,000 Palestinians sought refuge in the surrounding countries. Even today they are persecuted and oppressed in Israel with violent disputes occurring repeatedly.

The situation in the Near East is not likely to improve in the short term; on the contrary. The civil war in Syria continues unabated, the regime and rebel groups have powerful allies and an agreement is not in sight.

The refugee camp of Azraq. Up to 60.000 refugees can live here. In the near future, this number might grow to 110.000.
Photo: SDC

In the meantime, there are more than two million refugees registered in Jordan. With a total population of seven million Jordanians, this makes every third inhabitant a refugee. Many of them arrived as a result of earlier conflicts. The UN has registered 680,000 of the total 5 million Syrian refugees; the government in Amman speaks of 1.3 million. Most of these are housed in refugee camps. Ten official camps are distributed throughout the country – large tent camps which are heavily guarded. In 2014, a refugee camp was also installed at Azraq. It is intended to provide a home to around 110,000 people; currently 32,000 refugees live here.

Children playing on the streets of the Azraq refugee camp.
Photo: SDC

A water allowance of 35 litres of water daily is assumed for each refugee; in an emergency, each person will need to survive with 5 litres per day. In comparison: The average daily consumption of water per person in Germany is just less than 130 litres. To ensure the drinking water supply in the Azraq camp, two deep wells have now been drilled. This should guarantee the drinking water supply even with an increasing number of people in the camp. And yet: Sharing the scarce water available in Jordan is not popular.

Hans Keller, Manager Well Construction SDC

The refugee crisis has stimulated the country's economy, new jobs have been created and consumer spending has increased. Large sums of foreign aid are also flowing into the country, providing strong support for development aid in Jordan. Despite this, there is still great resentment against the refugees in the labour market. Many of them rent apartments in order to flee the refugee camps, thus causing a rise in rental prices. In addition, since 2015, refugees in Jordan have the right to employment, which has had an influence on the wage structure.

Maintenance of the border fence in the Azraq refugee camp. The area is under strict surveillance.
Photo: SDC

Na’el Hamoud, Restaurantowner in North-Azraq

Map of the refugee camps in Jordan.

Learn more about tourism in Jordan

There are also positive points of view. The Syrian culture is a cultural gain for Azraq with its mixed population, as the two countries are not so very different.

Ala’a Al-Sheshani, Shop Owner in South-Azraq

Learn more about the Azraq oasis as a habitat

Treating the symptoms

Today, the Azraq wetlands are protected. Many measures were taken to preserve the remaining marshes. But it is not an easy task and there is still very much to be done.

Learn more about the work of a ranger

"We must support the cause for better use of water resources."

The water shortage in in Jordan is everywhere and affects everyone. The Bedouin in the desert have to travel continually longer distances to find enough water and food for their animals. Every village has federal and private water suppliers. Their green and blue tankers are everywhere, supplying private residences and business premises. In the cities, water is supplied to the districts once or twice a week via the pipe system. Most of the houses and lodgings have water storage systems such as cisterns or large tanks. Despite the strictly organised water distribution system, the groundwater table is sinking further each day, causing deep frowns on the faces of the experts.

Mufleh Alalaween Al Abbadi, Expert on Water Management SDC

Save water with information

Various approaches have been followed in order to appease the growing tension. One of these is an attempt by the authorities to inform the population. Schools and universities teach the consequences of water shortages and how water can be saved. But the problem is not recognised by everyone as can often be seen: Many car owners wash their car daily. Gardens are watered in the strongest sunlight. And most of the houses are not connected to the water supply. This means the water is not recovered, treated and returned to the city water cycle, but is left to run into the ground from seepage ditches and infiltrate the groundwater.

The problem with the water pipes

Today, water is still distributed through old pipes. But these urgently need to be renovated as they allow a large amount of water to seep away into the ground. Experts assume a loss of up to 50% of the transported water. New leaks occur continually in the cities; whole streets are transformed into streams. The authorities repair broken and leaking pipes relatively quickly, but underground the seepage continues from cracks and small holes. According to water expert Mufleh Al Abbadi, renovation of the pipe system has top priority.

Wadi Numeira, a popular place for picnics: The environmental awareness of the jordan people is not very high.

Agricultural modernisation

Several possibilities exist for agriculture - water-consumer number 1. To achieve guaranteed yields, 97% of the agricultural land in Jordan needs to be irrigated. Modern irrigation systems offer themselves as a solution here. But these are expensive to buy. Modern seed cultures which need less water, could also lead to an alleviation of the situation, but the government has no clear strategy for the future. In addition to the natural challenges such as water shortages and major fluctuations in temperature, farmers also need to overcome unfavourable taxing by the authorities. This causes existential problems, above all for small and medium-sized agriculture holdings.

Satellite images of the Oasis from 1984 (left) and 2015 (right): The oasis is drying out, but the agricultural area at the east of the oasis is growing.

Move the white latch in order to compare the two images.

A centennial project with consequences

In order to find a long-term solution for the water problem, the Jordanian government has started a centennial project. The idea is not new – the first drafts were drawn up in 1855. There are plans to build a canal from the Red Sea with a drop in altitude of 400 metres to the lower lying Dead Sea. This is intended to prevent the Dead Sea from drying up while, at the same time, the water flowing in can be used for other purposes. The plan is expected to cost 10 billion US dollars; the total amount to be covered by Jordan and international investors. Preparations are running at top speed and construction of the canal is planned to start in 2018.

Mufleh Alalaween Al Abbadi, Expert on Water Management SDC

It is planned to desalinate the water, transported by the canal to the Dead Sea, in a desalination plant to make it suitable for drinking water. In this way, a new source of high-quality water would be created. However, the desalination process requires enormous quantities of energy which Jordan does not have. Currently, the kingdom imports the main share of its energy demand from the neighbouring countries. For this reason, construction of a nuclear power plant, to start operations in 2025, is planned to power the desalination plant.

The project of the century: A channel from the Red Sea to the Dead Sea should lessen the current drought.
Photo: arirusila.blogactiv.eu

But not everyone is confident about this centennial project. Some fear the consequences for the population and the natural environment. Muhammad Al-Sheshani, leader of the Chechens in South Azraq, wishes for two things in future.

Muhammad Al-Sheshani, Leader of the Chechens in South-Azraq

Not much time remains

One thing is clear: Something needs to change soon. Life in the oasis is continually changing, but the water shortage has a drastic effect on all inhabitants. Even though the topic is not new to the region, the situation has never before been as alarming as it is today. There is not much time left for the Jordanians to find and implement a solution to the current water problem.

On State level

The Ministry of Water Resources and Irrigation decides how much water is collected and where it is spread. The future of Azraq oasis lies mainly in their hand.

"If the rainfall average doesn't normalize, we will suffer even more in the future."

Kamal Al-Sa’ad, head of the water station in Azraq

Kamal Al-Sa’ad, head of the water station in Azraq

The approach of Jordan's government is highly controversial among experts.

"If they continue like this in a short time period there will be no water anymore."

Hans Keller, manager well construction

Hans Keller, manager well construction

Educational work

Water expert Mufleh Al Abbadi sees an urgent need of action in education of public. This should be carried out worldwide.

"There is still a lot to do."

Mufleh Alalaween Al Abbadi, expert on water SDC

Mufleh Alalaween Al Abbadi, expert on water SDC

Agriculture

The government lack of a comprehensive strategy in the agricultural sector. In addition to natural challenges like water shortage and extreme temperature fluctuations the farmers must deal with unfavourable tax treatment of the authorities. This endangers the livelihood of small and medium-sized farms.

"I see no future."

Abdullah Jad Hussein, famer in Azraq

Abdullah Jad Hussein, farmer in Azraq

Azraq's inhabitants

Over the decades, the inhabitants of the two villages North and South Azraq have learnt to manage with their different cultures and expectations. Shakeeb Al-Shomari observes that for this reason, many traditions are slowly changing. Modern communication technology is also contributing to this.

Shakeeb Al-Shomari, cultural commissary for the Druze

Shakeeb Al-Shomari, cultural commissary for the Druze

Not much time remains

One thing is clear: Something needs to change soon. Life in the oasis is continually changing, but the water shortage has a drastic effect on all inhabitants. Even though the topic is not new to the region, the situation has never before been as alarming as it is today.

There is not much time left for the Jordanians to find and implement a solution to the current water problem.

Do something!

Not only Jordan is affected by a water shortage. Throughout the world, more than 750 million people have no access to clean drinking water. During droughts and dry periods the water in Europe can also be in short supply. But there are simple measures which can help every individual person to save water.

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Azraq - a place of cultural diversity

The people living at Azraq take their origins from different races and tribes. This means that different cultures also come up against each other. This is not always easy. The Druze, Chechens and Bedouins living here have different expectations and ways of life. Despite this they successfully live together in peace.



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The climate and the people

The weather conditions in the Near East change every 20,000 years. This is due to the permanent pendulum movement of the earth's axis which causes the tropical rain belt to shift over the equator. This is why the borders of the Arabian deserts are always moving. As result, the conditions in the area are sometimes wet and sometimes dry.

The earth's surface and growth of the world's population over the last 10,000 years.

Shakeeb Al-Shomari, Cultural Comissary for the Druze

At the same time, the world population is growing at a rapid rate. Over the last 10,000 years it has risen from 5 million people (8,000 BC) to 7,350 million (2015). The actions of mankind has a direct influence on global warming and the climate change worldwide.

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Searching for guests

Jordan has many attractions: Whether spectacular temples made of sandstone at Petra, Roman ruins in Amman and Jerash, early Christianity mosaics at Madaba, exciting tours through the desert Wadi Rum desert, (mud)baths in the Dead Sea or sub aqua in the Red Sea off Aqaba. Whether adventure or wellness, Jordan can satisfy every wish. Up until 2012, these tourist offers were also very popular. In the record year 2010, 8.2 million tourists were registered. Business boomed, many people found work in the tourist industry and were able to support their families.

The Dead Sea. The salt-content is continually increasing – today it is about 30%.

With the outbreak of the Arab Spring in 2011, however, the number of visitors to Jordan dropped dramatically. Since then, the area has been considered unsafe by many travel agencies and portals. Many authorities also advise against travelling here. This has had an enormous impact on the local tourist industry: in 2016, only 2.1 million people visited the country – a drop of 75%. Where up until a few years ago, good money was to be earned, today, the shops remain shut. The former traders and tourist guides work in other sectors or are unemployed. Unemployment figures rose in the last months to more than 18%, meaning that nearly every 5th person has no regular income.

Camels after a ride out in the desert Wadi Rum.

The expensive infrastructure of tourist centres and bus stations lies abandoned. Where only a few years ago, busloads of tourists flocked to the souvenir stands, today no cars stop. Those people who have stayed, are plagued by strong existential fears. Nader Balous, tourist guide at the desert castle of Azraq, is one of them. He reawakens the past with his tales of the times when T. E. Lawrence – better known as Lawrence of Arabia – stayed here. The fortress at Azraq was built during the times of the Roman Empire to protect its borders. Over the centuries it has been occupied by various rulers, as the oasis has always held a position of great strategic importance being the only water in a vast dry desert.

The desert castle at Azraq was built of black basalt.

"Before the crisis, between 700 and 1000 people visited the fortress every day. Today there are 40 to 100 – if we are lucky."

Nader Balous, tourist guide at Azraq desert castle.

Tourist guide Nader Balous in the desert castle at Azraq.

The collapse of the tourist industry has also had an effect on the life of Nader Balous' son. He has had to leave his hometown and works today in the capital city, Amman. The cost of living is very high there. If he can, he sends his father some money at the end of the month. Otherwise, Nadar has to ask the village and his neighbours for help. "That's okay", he says with a lopsided grin and a shrug of his shoulders. When he was asked about the current situation in an interview, he repeated like a mantra, "Jordan is a very safe country!" He and many other people wish the tourist hordes would return.

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Take a tour with ranger Shareef

Caring for a nature reserve is hard work. Apart from the ecological significance, a piece of history is also preserved here. Ranger Shareef has a very varied profession and carries it out with great commitment to the natural environment.



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The azraq habitat

Marshy pools & dry moorland

Marshy pools are constantly saturated wetlands. As a rule, many plant remains collect in them and are only slowly broken down due to the low oxygen levels in the water. Marshes are overgrown with deep water plants.

There are only three pools in Azraq. They are filled with water throughout the year.

In Azraq, the marshy pools are now maintained artificially as the groundwater level has sunk beneath the level necessary to feed the natural springs. The pools are also kept open and free of invasive plants in order to promote the numbers of local animals and migrating birds. The marshy pools provide the basic requirements for the existence of many different kinds of animal and plant, including fish like carp or different kinds of tilapia. The most important inhabitant of the marshy pools is the Azraq Killifish. This is a unique species found only at Azraq Oasis. Following the drying out of the oasis in 1991, it was possible to rescue a small number of these fish. A support programme has been developed for this species and new pools have been built specifically for the Killifish to ensure their survival.

Along with the wetlands there are also areas of dry moorland. In some places the ground is moist, allowing a greater diversity of species.

The dry moorland is the area between the pools which is not flooded with water but still provides a good basic habitat for plants and animals.

"Al Qa'a" Seasonal Moorland

The seasonal moorland Al Qa’a is formed by the collection of rainwater. It lies at the lowest point of the Azraq Oasis. With 12 outflow points, an area of up to 74 square kilometres is flooded and provides a resting place for migratory birds. The moorland is formed during the rainy season in spring and dries out again later in summer. Along with the basic requirements for many birds and salt-tolerant plants, it was earlier an important source of income for the inhabitants as they were able to derive a large amount of salt from it. In the meantime, the production of salt has stopped due to strong competition from the Dead Sea area.

Al Qa'a, the seasonal moorland, is only flooded during the rainy season in spring, but then covers an area of 74 square kilometres.

Mud hills

Since the drying out of the oasis in 1991, new ecosystems have been formed, including mud hills. The flow of water transports sand from the seasonal moorlands (Al Qa’a) and the marsh pools, depositing it to form mud hills or silt dunes. They form a habitat for many kinds of salt-tolerant plants and animals.

Mud hills form between the seasonal moorland and the pools due to deposits of salty sand.